DivIV_Revision

Purpose: The information in the table below pertains to changes to Division IV in the Blue Book that will be proposed for NBS membership approval at the 2011 Annual meeting. This draft is posted here in order to obtain Society member input, including corrections and improvements, before submitting a final proposal. Background: During the first 10 months of 2010, an on-line workshop was conducted to: (1) preserve and expand current awareness of Div. IV items; (2) develop an on-line educational resource for the items; and (3) assess the adequacy of the current Blue Book content on Div. IV and recommend changes, if needed, to enhance collector interest and competition. The Div. IV chair, Paul Rice, facilitated the workshop. More than 60 collectors collaborated in the workshop process and the resulting educational resource. The consensus of the workshop participants was that a thoughtful Blue Book revision was desirable to increase collector interest. Thus, the Div. IV chair synthesized the inputs from the collaborators and developed the draft proposed changes shown below. Discussion: The changes proposed generally fall into four categories. The first category (highlighted in blue) is a limited expansion of details to clarify the range of items in a complete representation and to provide guidance in writing awards. These items are generally self-explanatory, represent the majority of the changes, and include certain shorthand techniques to minimize additional space. The second category (highlighted in yellow) involves the logical reorganization of sections to reduce confusion and/or minimize space. These changes involve the combination of Button Covers and Shoe Button Covers into a consolidated Section 3 and the combination of Links and Studs into a consolidated Section 6. In both cases, the proposed class listings and definitions retain a class structure that allows awards to be written for competition of items in these sections just as they can in the current version. Two advantages for combining links and studs is that a competitor writing an award based on usage (i.e. cuff links, collar buttons, etc.) will not need to span two separate sections for the award and, items that were invented, sold and used as studs will no longer have to be called links based on a mechanical design feature (movable versus non-movable parts). The third category (highlighted in pink) involves the deletion, correction, or clarification of several section entries. For example, the proposal deletes skirt elevators, since there are only three known authentic examples, which would not support a competition card. The fourth category (highlighted in green) involves the addition of a few new items to existing sections. For example, studs with spiral wire shanks, commonly misidentified as skirt elevators, are added as a new back type in the links and studs section. Also, bachelor buttons have been added to other related specialties since they do not fit in any other section. Page Layout: For convenience of review, the the current Blue Book section and class listing and section and class definitions are shown below on the left. The corresponding proposed changes are shown to the right. Blue text indicates temporary editor notes for explanations. All comments, questions, and suggested improvements are welcome and should be sent to the Div. IV chair at price6@comcast.net.
Color Codes: Expansion of Class Details - Consolidation of Sections - Deletions/Corrections - New Item in Section - Temporary Editor Notes
Section and Class Listing 2011-2012 Blue Book Text (Current Version)	Section and Class Listing 2013-2017 Blue Book Text (Proposed Revision)
DIVISION IV - RELATED SPECIALTIES (Page 27-28)	DIVISION IV - RELATED SPECIALTIES
SECTION 1 - BRIDLE ROSETTES 1- 0 Bridle rosettes (12 per card)	SECTION 1 - BRIDLE ROSETTES 1- 0 Bridle rosettes assorted (12 per card) 1- 1 Face designs (includes pictorial, patterns, and symbols) 1- 2 Specific design features*
SECTION 2 - BUCKLES/CLASPS Refer to page 67. 2- 1 Buckles/clasps 2- 2 Buckles/clasps, 6 pairs per card, any type fastening device 2- 3 Buckles/clasps, 6 pairs per card, centered button shanks only	SECTION 2 - BUCKLES/CLASPS 2- 0 Buckles/Clasps assorted (Award will specify number required) 2- 1 Buckle design (includes one-piece, two-piece, and three-piece) 2- 2 Specific design features* 2- 3 Unlisted (includes shoe buckles and sweater guards)
SECTION 3 - BUTTON COVERS 3- 0 Button covers	SECTION 3 - BUTTON COVERS AND SHOE BUTTON COVERS 3- 1 Button covers (25 per card) 3- 1.1 Specific design features* 3- 2 Shoe button covers assorted (20 singles per card or 10 pairs per card) 3- 2.1 Back types (shank types include omega, modified omega, and centered or offset straight bar) 3- 2.2 Specific design features*
SECTION 4 - BUTTON HOOKS 4- 0 Button hooks	SECTION 4 - BUTTON HOOKS 4- 0 Button hooks assorted (Award will specify number required) 4- 1 Functional design (button hooks, glove hooks, loops, fobs, and mechanical) 4- 2 Handle designs (includes advertising, art nouveau, trench art, figural/realistic, and pictorial) 4- 3 Specific design features*
SECTION 5 - COSTUME TRIMMINGS Refer to page 67 for definition 5- 0 Costume trimmings assorted 5- 1 Wired black glass 5- 2 One or more holes on the edge 5- 3 Unlisted	SECTION 5 - COSTUME TRIMMINGS 5- 0 Costume trimmings assorted (Award will specify number required) 5- 1 Back types (holes at the edge, one or more shanks, prongs, screw, etc.) *5- 2 Specific design features (e.g.** wired black glass)
SECTION 6 - LINKS (formerly cuff buttons) Refer to page 67 for definition. 6- 1 Links, single (25 per card) 6- 2 Links, pair (12 pairs per card) This section is expanded to include studs (Section 10 below). Note that the proposed class and subclass structure allows collectors/competitors to specify awards in the same manner as the the current format of two separate sections.	SECTION 6 – LINKS AND STUDS 6- 0 Links and studs assorted (25 singles or 12 pairs per card) 6- 1 Back types assorted 6- 1.1 Rigid post (no moving parts) 6- 1.2 Non-separable (includes linked-buttons, toggles, other mechanisms with movable parts) 6- 1.3 Separable (includes spring/lever or snap mechanisms for separating the front and back) 6- 1.4 Spiral wire shank 6- 2 Specific design features* 6- 3 Usage (includes cuff links, collar buttons, shirt studs, etc.)
SECTION 7 - NETSUKE Refer to page 67 for definition 7- 0 Netsuke (12 per card)	SECTION 7 - NETSUKE 7- 0 Netsuke assorted (12 per card) 7- 1 Specific types (Katabori, Sashi, Manju, Ryusa, Kagamibuta and Mask)
SECTION 8 - OBI DOME Refer to page 67 for definition 8- 0 Obi dome (12 per card)	SECTION 8 - OBIDOME 8- 0 Obidome assorted (12 per card) 8- 1 Specific design features*
SECTION 9 - SHOE BUTTON COVERS 9- 1 Shoe button covers, single (20 per card) 9- 2 Shoe button covers, pairs (10 pairs per card)	The current Section 9 has been consolidated into Section 3 with separate classes for button covers and shoe button covers. Both items are ornamental covers for buttons and differ only in their usage and means of attachment. The ability to write awards for one or the other is retained.
SECTION 10 - STUDS Refer to page 67 for definition 10-1 Studs, single (25 per card) 10-2 Studs, pairs (12 pairs per card)	The current Section 10 has been consolidated into Section 6. The proposed class and subclass structure allows collectors/competitors to specify awards in the same manner as the the current format of two separate sections. However, cuff links with a rigid post will no longer be defined as studs and shirt studs that are separable will no longer be defined as links.
SECTION 11 - OTHER RELATED SPECIALTIES Refer to page 67 for definition 11- 0 Other specialties (skirt elevators, snappettes, tie tacks, etc.)	SECTION 9 - OTHER RELATED SPECIALTIES 9- 1 Snapettes (Snap, Pin, Clamp, Pendant, other) 9- 2 Bachelor Buttons 9- 3 Unlisted (Tie tacks, etc.)
The purpose of the note in the proposed revision to the right is to avoid repetitive entries in the section and class listings for common characteristics and thus reduces the increased length of the revision. Its location here prevents the reader from having to go to the definitions pages for the meaning of the shortcut used in the listings.	*Specific Design Features – Div. IV items have many of the same features and design characteristics as buttons in Div. I, III, and IX. “Specific design features” provides a class for writing focused awards. Focus may include, materials (specific or assorted), pictorials, patterns, OME, DF, shapes, back types, back marks, etc. (e.g. buckles/clasps specialized to pictorial only or bridle rosettes specialized to shapes)

Section and Class Definitions 2011-2012 Blue Book Text (Current Revision)	Section and Class Definitions 2013-2017 Blue Book Text (Proposed Revision)
*DIVISION IV*	*DIVISION IV*
The purpose of the added information in the proposal to the right is to provide some minimal insight into Div. IV for the novice and, hopefully, enhance collector interest and competition in Div. IV items.	Related Specialties – The items in Div. IV do not fit the normally accepted definition of buttons. They generally fall into one or more categories. They are: (1) button-like in both appearance and function, but are not attached to the garment with needle and thread (studs, links, and bachelor buttons); (2) button-like in appearance, but serve only a decorative purpose (bridle rosettes, trim, button covers, shoe button covers, and obidome); (3) button-related in their use (button hooks); and (4) used as fasteners (buckles, clasps, snapettes, tie tacks and netsuke). Competing in Related Specialties – Because the items in Div. IV are less rigorously defined than those in button section/class definitions, the award may need to specify the types, numbers, and other specific design features desired.
SECTION 2 - BUCKLES/CLASPS 2- 1 Buckles/clasps. All types of buckle construction. A two-piece buckle (clasp) unfastens into two sections that may or may not be identical in size and/or design. Award should specify number and type desired.	SECTION 2 - BUCKLES/CLASPS 2- 1 Buckle Design. One-piece, Two-piece, and Three-piece. Includes one-piece with one or more prongs (or posts), one-piece slide, two (or more) piece clasps with hook and eye or snap closure, and two-piece interlock. The parts of two or more piece buckles may or may not be identical in size and/or design
The purpose of the added definition to the right is to provide clarification and guidance on shoe button covers with bar shanks to resolve questions and issues that have occurred in past competitions.	Section 3 – Button Covers and Shoe Button Covers (previously separated in two sections) Button Covers slip over small buttons on garments. Shoe button covers go over shoe buttons. 3- 2.1 Back types. Bar shanks may be centered or offset and/or notched. Centered bar shank types cover the shoe button when the bar contacts the shoe button shank. Bar shanks with holes for sewing identify shoe buckles which belong in Section 2-3.
*The purpose of the added definition to the right is to provide clarification and guidance on the potential focus for collecting and competing button hooks.*	SECTION 4 – Button Hooks 4- 1 Functional design: Button hooks (>1/2" hook), Glove hooks (<1/2" hook), Loops (closed wire), Fobs (suspension ring on handle), and Mechanical (Retractable/Penknife/Other Tools) 4- 2 Handle designs: Trench art is the term used for button hooks made from World War I salvaged battlefield metal debris.
SECTION 5 - COSTUME TRIMMINGS 5- 1 Wired black glass. Black glass pieces attached to thin wire on back. The purpose of the expanded definition to the right is to provide clarification and guidance on the potential focus for collecting and competing costume trimmings. The list of exclusions is based on the consensus of a majority of collaborators that well-defined limits need to be applied to retain the focus on items of greater interest to the majority of collectors.	SECTION 5 – Costume Trimmings 5- 0 Costume trimmings assorted - Serve as adornment only. The size, configuration or fragility of construction, makes them not viable as buttons. Attachment is by sewing, or mechanical means, such as threaded screw or metal prongs that penetrate the fabric. Excluded are (1) ribbon, lace, gimp, appliqué and iron-on trim; (2) individual beads, sequins and bracelet segments (two tunnel holes); (3) all functional items including hat pins, chatelaines, key holders, sweater guards, etc.; and (4) items with pin-back type fasteners (including pin and pinch clamp) used for brooches, campaign type buttons, and other jewelry items. 5- 1 Back types – The means of attachment may includes one or more shanks, one or more holes (often near the edge), or a mechanical means such as prongs or a threaded screw. Since some buttons have two shanks to maintain pictorial alignment, awards including this back type should specify any limitations on shank separation or their position relative to the edge.
SECTION 6 - LINKS Fastener with movable parts (toggles, chains, ball and joint, hinge pin), or any mechanism that comes apart (screws, pinch fasteners, etc.) Worn on men's shirts and women's blouses and chemises. Includes cuff buttons (two buttons joined by a link, chain, snap, etc.) Award may specify a type of fastening device. See editor note in section listing above. There is no change in the ability to write awards for studs and/or links using the revised listing and definitions from that currently available in the current format. The addition of the spiral shank studs as a new back type opens the door for collecting and competing these common clothing fasteners.	Section 6 – Links and Studs (previously separated in two sections) 6- 0 Links and studs assorted – Fasteners used for men's vests and shirt bosoms, women's shirtwaists and chemises, men's or women's collars and cuffs and lapel decorations. The front of the stud or link is button-like in size, shape, design and material. The front is connected to a disk or foot, in the back, by a straight or curved rigid post or rod(s), or a movable or separable mechanism. A spiral wire may substitute for the post and foot. The post or rod(s) fits through one or more button holes. Movement in the decoration is allowed regardless of back type. 6- 1 Back types - Award may specify any or all back types listed below. 6- 1.1 Rigid post. Has no moving parts and may be straight or curved. 6- 1.2 Non-separable. Includes linked-buttons, toggles, and other mechanisms with movable parts. A linked-button consists of two buttons joined by a link, chain or cord. A toggle consists of one button connected to a bar like object with a link or chain. Other types include a hinged foot, bullet toggle (rotating bar), prongs (finger, loop, turret, and stirrup), and a telescoping bar. 6- 1.3 Separable. Similar to non-separable types in usage, these items may be separated into two pieces and thus installed without passing the front or the foot through the button holes. 6- 1.4 Spiral wire shank. Jewelry quality studs with spiral wire shanks used on men’s shirts and women’s shirtwaists. Have been misidentified as skirt elevators.
SECTION 7 - NETSUKE Back openings run vertically. Used by Japanese men to anchor tobacco pouches, trinkets, etc., to their sashes. Made or carved from various materials. *The purpose of the expanded definition to the right is to provide clarification and guidance on the potential focus for collecting and competing netsuke.*	Section 7 – Netsuke (pronounced net-ski) 7-0 Netsuke assorted. Used by Japanese men to anchor pouches for carrying personal items (tobacco, pipes, or writing tools) to their sashes. 7- 1 Specific types. Katabori - the common figural sculpture; Sashi - a long, thin netsuke; Manju - a round, flat shape named after a popular bean paste confection; Ryusa - Similar to Manju but with open work design; Kagamibuta - (literally, "mirror lid") with a metal lid and a bowl.
SECTION 8 - OBI DOME Backs have horizontal placement of molded holes or bar-like shanks through which the cord passes that secures the obi (Japanese woman's sash). Made of a variety of materials.	Section 8 – Obidome (pronounced "oh-bee-doe-may”) 8- 0 Obidome assorted. Used by Japanese women as an ornament on the silk cord that secured the sash (obi) on their kimono. Backs have molded holes, placed horizontally, or bar-like shanks through which the silk cord passed.
SECTION 10 - STUDS Used for fastening men's shirts and cuffs, vests, ladies' shirtwaists and for lapel decoration. The front of the stud is similar to a button in size, shape, design and material. A straight or curved rigid post or rod connects the button-like front to a smaller disk or patented fastener that fits through a buttonhole. No part moves or comes apart. There can be movement in the decoration (google eyes, enclosed dice, etc.), but not the construction of the stud. Award may specify straight or curved posts.	*See comments above for consolidation of Sections 10 and 6.*
SECTION 11 - OTHER RELATED SPECIALTIES Includes snappettes, tie tacks, skirt elevators, etc. Skirt elevator: Spiral metal wire back with sharp point for twisting through fabric. Snappette: A decorative front piece is connected to a separate metal disc with a chain. Top piece snaps onto the disc. Award should state type and number requirements.	Section 9 – Other Related Specialties 9-1 Snapettes. Likely used to fasten coats starting in the late 1930s, a snapette is a button-like device with a decorative front piece which is connected to a separate metal disk or shape sewn to the garment. The two are often connected with a chain. Closure mechanisms include a snap, pin, clamp, or pendant. See May 2006 NBB. 9-2 Bachelor buttons. Most often invented as a replacement for lost buttons or for easy removal for laundering. Some are not removable. Attaches to garment without needle and thread and, unlike rivet shanks, requires no special tools. Shanks take multiple forms including pin, screw, clamp, spiral wire, etc.
Please send all questions, comments, and suggested improvements to price6@comcast.net.