Div IV - Section 11

Other Related Specialties

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Section 1Section 2Section 3Section 4Section 5Section 6Section 7Section 8Section 9Section 10Section 11
 

Discussion:  Section 11 serves to identify those button related items not covered by other sections in Division IV. It is reasonable to assume that items in this section were less popular or less widely found in collections and, thus, did not rise to the level of the other Division IV items that are assigned their own separate section. This section contains four types or subclasses including an unlisted type to account for button-like accessories not listed elsewhere in the National Button Society Blue Book1.

The first type is skirt elevators currently defined in the Blue Book as having a "spiral metal wire back with sharp point for twisting through fabric." There has been a common misconception that all buttons with a spiral wire shank were used to adjust the flounce on women's skirts. As explained in the article, Studs, Buttons, or Dress Elevators?2, most spiral shank buttons, many of which are jewelry quality, were actually designed and used as shirt bosom studs in the late 19th century. These interesting studs are currently orphans, since they do not precisely fit the existing Blue Book definitions for studs or links. A future revision to the Blue Book will correct this gap. For now, the spiral shank studs are shown in the table below as unlisted. The actual dress elevators discussed below will remain on this educational page for identification purposes. Since a recent in-depth search identified only two different examples for the skirt elevators, they are not a good candidate for competition and probably should be removed from the Blue Book in the next revision.

The second type in this section is the snapette, which is a button-like device defined in the Blue Book as follows: "a decorative front piece is connected to a separate metal disk with a chain. Top piece snaps onto the disc." Not all snapettes fasten with a snap device and not all have a chain. An informative and colorful article3 in the May 2006 National Button Bulletin nicely explains these items. They were most likely used to fasten coats starting in the late 1930s .

The third type of related specialties covered here is the tie tack, which needs no explanation. How they found their way into this section is vague but, like many of the items in Division IV, they are button-like in appearance and serve as a garment fastener. They do not fit in Section 5, Costume Trimmings, since they served the functional purpose of securing the tie to the shirt. They were sometimes sold with fancy cuff links and range from very ornamental items made with precious metals and gems to amusing and utilitarian varieties.

Two types of related specialties are shown in the unlisted section below. They include the spiral wire shank studs discussed above and a category, not now recognized in the Blue Book, called bachelor buttons. They are buttons that were designed to be removable and replaceable without a needle and thread, but, unlike studs or links, they do not require a button hole for attachment. More than 30 patents were granted after the mid 1850s for this type of button. The inventors usually defined their purpose as a replacement for a lost button (think bachelor) or for the convenience of those who had to remove buttons for laundering the clothes. They were never intended to be used as links or studs, so they do not fit in Sections 6 or 10. They functioned as normal buttons and, like rivet shank buttons, were attached to the fabric by mechanical means. Unlike the rivet shanks, bachelor buttons needed no special tools to attach them and most bachelor buttons could be removed and replaced without damaging the garment. An article4 in the July 2010 National Button Bulletin provides further information.

Collectors who choose to compete the items in this section will need to specify the types, numbers, special attributes, and the desired focus for the award.

Types or Subclass:
11-1  Dress Elevators
11-2  Snapettes (snap, pin, clamp, pendant, other)
11-3  Tie Tacks
11-4  Unlisted (includes spiral shank studs and bachelor buttons)

11-1 Dress Elevators
 

 

 

 

11-1 Dress Elevators  (5/8")

These black and white glass buttons with the tiny center pin are the only known examples that were invented for and sold as "Dress Elevators". Click on the following button to see a reference article on dress elevators.
Dress Elevator Article

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Actual Box Top for Smith's Patent Elevators

11-2 Snapettes
 


 

11-2 Snapettes - Brass - Snap type
Back mark "B Blumenthal & Co. Inc.

11-2 Snapettes - Bakelite - Brass OME - Pin type

11-2 Snapettes - Celluloid - Clamp type

 

11-2 Snapettes - Bakelite
Realistic Ball Cap - Snap type

11-2 Snapettes - Glass in metal
Snap type

11-2 Snapettes - Brass Wood OME - Snap type

11-2 Snapettes - Bakelite - Pin type

11-2 Snapettes - Wood - Paint OME - Snap type
Back mark "Fred Gray"

11-2 Snapettes - Brass - Paint OME - Snap type

11-2 Snapettes - Bakelite with Brass Key
Pin type

11-2 Snapettes - Celluloid - Snap type


11-2 Snapettes - Bakelite - Pin type

11-2 Snapettes - Black Enamel with Brass OME
Snap type

11-2 Snapettes - Bakelite on Brass
Snap type

11-2 Snapettes - Bakelite - Snap type

Click on Image for Original 1941 Patent
Note Inventor's term of Snap-on Button

11-2 Snapettes - White Metal - Paint DF - View 1
Clamp type

11-2 Snapettes - White Metal - Paint DF - View 2
Clamp type

11-3 Tie Tacks

11-3 Tie Tack - Brass  (7/8")

11-3 Tie Tack - Copper  (3/4")

 

 

11-3 Tie Tack - Paint DF  (5/8")

11-3 Tie Tack - Brass - Paste OME    (3/4")

11-3 Tie Tack - Glass in Metal  (3/4")

11-3 Tie Tack - Ceramic  (5/8")

11-3 Tie Tack - Brass - Paint DF  (1")

11-3 Tie Tack - White Metal   (7/8")
Metropolitan Florida

11-3 Tie Tack - DUG  (3/4")

11-3 Tie Tack - Brass - Realistic  (7/8")

11-3 Tie Tack - Black Glass-Precision Inlay  (3/4")

11-3 Tie Tack - Glass in Metal  (7/8")

11-4 Unlisted
Spiral Wire Shank Shirt Bosom Studs
Click here to see article that describes the spiral shank buttons
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Bachelor Buttons
Click on any patent image to see original patent drawings and text (Click browser back button to return here)

1917 Pilcher Bachelor Button Patent

1917 Pilcher Bachelor Button Parts

 

1917 Pilcher Bachelor Button Side View

Pilcher's Bachelor Button Sales Card

 

Modern "Perfect Fit" Bachelor Button

 

 

 

Modern "Perfect Fit" Bachelor Button - Parts


Non-separable Bachelor Buttons Sales Card

1873 Bachelor Button Patent - Note that patents granted to women were not common in this period.

1886 Bachelor Button Patent
Credits and References

Acknowledgements:
Thanks to those collaborators who made examples from their collections available for the images shown on these pages. They include Kevin Kinne, Adrienne Bennett, Jeffrey Lee, and Karen Farnsworth. Others who contributed reviews, comments and support included Pat Koehler, Barbara Barrans, Lisa Schulz, Lou Yeargain, and Pat Fields. Thank you all.

References:
(1) National Button Society Blue Book, 2011 - 2012, Official NBS Classification and Competition Guidelines
(2) Studs, Buttons, or Dress Elevators? - Paul Rice - Button Country website, http://www.buttoncountry.com/Dress%20Elev%20Art%201.htm
(3) Snapettes - Lucille Weingarten and Herman Bangeman - National Button Bulletin, Vol. 65, No. 2, May 2006  
(4) Bachelor Buttons - Paul Rice - National Button Bulletin, Vol. 69, No. 3, July 2010
(5) US Patent and Trademark Office, Patent Images, http://www.uspto.gov/. 2008
 

Current Blue Book text: 11-0 Other Specialties (skirt elevators, snappettes, tie tacks, etc.) Skirt Elevator: Spiral metal wire back with sharp point for twisting through fabric. Snappette: A decorative front piece is connected to a separate metal disk with a chain. Top piece snaps onto the disc. Award should state type and number requirements.

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